Today in the studio I have been working on a new Chainmaille weave for a variety of items and the post is packed with photos. The Jens Pind Linkage or JPL for short is a spiral weave and very much like a rope pattern. The tight AR (Aspect Ratio) of the rings locks them into place and keeps the weave from unwinding.
The Jens Pind weave, in three colors, to show the pattern. This is a favorite way to weave this pattern, the colors show off the spiral twist of the chain.
Each jump ring is placed through the two prior rings and lines up with the ring of the same color. The jump rings must be linked precisely and in the correct position to achieve the zig-zag stacking effect.
Aspect Ratio is measured by dividing the Inner Diameter (ID) of the jump ring by the Wire Diameter (WD = gauge). It is important to convert the wire gauge into millimeters before dividing. Yes, you have to do math!
AR = ID ÷ WD
Example: 3.0 ÷ 1.024 = 2.92
This would be equivalent to a 3.0mm ID 18 gauge wire jump ring, with an AR of 2.92
It is important to take this into account when working a weave pattern. If the wire is too thick, the inner diameter will not be large enough for the number of the rings that need to pass through it, too thin or the ID too large, the weave (knit) will be too loose with an airy or lacy look. Some Chainmaille patterns are very AR sensitive, as I have found out attempting the Jens Pind. Not terribly complicated, but done with an incorrect AR and you a have an unattractive mess.
Two Color Jens Pind weave, although the rings look the same, they are not, the silver rings are 16g and the Brown are 18g, both rings are 10mm, however for some odd reason they both have an inner diameter of about 5.2. The pattern has a more open weave then the three color chain in the same gauge.
You can see the contrasting rings through the weave, showing that the weave is a little loser than the three color example above.
As you spin or turn the chain the illusion of twisting or spiraling occurs.
Although the position of the rings never changes, they appear to twist through each other depending on the angle of view.
In order to show the detail, I have used 14 g, 16, and 18g, 10mm Anodized Aluminum jump rings purchased from a craft store in all of the example photos. These have an ID of 5 (perhaps 5.2) the AR is 5.2 ÷ 1.628 = 3.2 (3.19) This is a good AR for this particular Chainmaille weave. The correct or optimal AR is somewhere between 2.76 and 3.1
A good tight Jens Pind weave will be supple enough to move fluidly, making it ideal for bracelets, necklaces, and other ornaments and items. Another word about Aspect Ratio, if the AR of any weave is too tight the chain will be stiff and unsuitable for much, including armor, decorative or other wise. Placing the rings properly is crucial if the chain is to be flexible enough for wear or use.
Single color Jens Pind weave. The chain can look different depending on whether you use multiple or single colors of jump rings. I find the single color to be most attractive, but more difficult to weave without the color variation as a visual guide for the ring placement.
These are large chunky chains to show detail. I dislike the rings I purchased, they are poorly cut, some have large burrs or Gargoyle heads and were unacceptable to use, some effort went into sorting and trying to clean them up before the project began. Unfortunately I think another material or another supplier is in order.
Now that we have seen the different looks you can achieve lets take a quick look at how to make this pattern. If you are just learning to weave (knit) maille, may I suggest learning the Half and / or Full Persian weaves before attempting the Jens Pind, it will make more sense if you are familiar with those patterns.
I have tried to be clear, concise and brief in my tutorial, I expect the pictures to be of more help than the written instruction. I will be using Green, Blue and Purple jump rings as in the photo above for easy ring identification and to show the step by step placement of each ring as it is linked into place.
Lot and Lots of jump rings in the correct AR
Two Pairs of pliers (preferably Flat Nosed)
Direction: "Up" = away from you, Down = towards you
1. Close one ring (Green) and connect a twist tie to mark the beginning of the chain.
2. Put one jump ring (Blue) through the first one, close it, and lay it flat against the first one. This will determine how the spiral will form.
3. Add a third jump ring (Purple), by passing it through the eye created by the first two rings and lay it flat against the second ring.
There are now three rings, Green, Blue, Purple (or 1, 2, 3). The purple ring is in the correct position.
4. Add a fourth ring (*Green), this ring should align with the first ring (The one with the twist tie). Slide the ring up through the eye in the previous two rings (blue and purple) making sure it lies behind the first Green ring. Close the ring. *The pattern repeat begins. You can see the zig-zag stacking begin.
5. Rotate the chain so the Blue jump ring arcs over the work.
6. Add the next ring (Blue). Slide the ring down and through the eye of Green and Purple rings and UNDERNEATH (in front of) the previous Blue jump ring.
Each color of the rings must lay in the same direction, as the chain grows it will be easier to see where to place the next ring. Each color ring goes through the same eye as the previous one of the same color.
7. Rotate the chain so the Purple Ring arcs over the work. Add the next ring (purple). Slide the ring up and through the eye of the Green and Blue rings and behind the previous purple ring.
The pattern is beginning to form and you can see how the jump rings are placed in relationship to each other. The Chain needs to be turned to make sure that the rings are lined up in the right position and placed opposite each other.
8. Continue with steps 4 through 7 adding each color (Green, Blue, Purple) of jump ring in order until your length of chain is complete.
There are now seven rings total in the chain, and the third Green, Blue, Purple sequence begins.
Finish with a clasp or link together with a jump ring. Here is a short length sample of the chain we just made, supple enough to make a circle.
The Alchemists Vessel would like to wish you a pleasant day.
zlosk.com: Maille - Jens Pind Linkage Ring Calculator
Table of AWG Wire Sizes